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Paul RakoTechnical Editor Paul Rako looks at analog technology in power supplies, interface, the signal path, and life in general.



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Thursday, March 19, 2009

Yet another fluorescent ballast fails on me, time for LEDs

Mar 19 2009 8:13PM | Permalink |Comments (16) |


Actually two ballasts failed. These are from Advance Transformer Company and I really don’t think it is their fault. Heck it might be my fault since I see that there are different colored wires that are supposed to hook to the 40-watt circular and the 32-watt circular light. The ballasts were mounted in a flush-mount ceiling fixture that has absolutely no provision for air circulation.

Advance_ballast_melted

I taped a thermocouple to the side of the ballast and my trusty Fluke 52 dual J/K thermocouple meter said the temperature got to 93 degrees centigrade. Worse yet, my trusty Fluke 80T-IR infrared meter would read a good 10 degrees hotter when I pointed it at the paper label, something that should have an emissivity of about 1.0. I can only imagine what the temperature of the windings were, certainly too hot for my liking. I don’t want anything in my house wiring that is over 100°C. Finding the replacement ballasts was pretty straightforward. Some places wanted 66 bucks each. I found the RS-32-40-TP-W ballast on an outfit called Drillspot. Funny thing though is that they just got the ballasts from good old Grainger, who has a large store right here in Sunnyvale. I guess it was for the best since the one ballast came from the San Jose location and another was from out-of-state. Price was 33 bucks each plus shipping.

Lithonia_Lighitng_fixture

I installed the new ballasts but who wants to watch them burn out again due to a bad fixture design? So I drilled a bunch of holes in the side of the fixture and cut a huge hole in the plastic cover to let the air flow up and out. Sad thing is that it did not make much difference. Where the ballast would get to about 67°C with no cover on the fixture, it still got up to 83°C with the cover that had the holes in it.

Advance_ballast_thermocouple

Better than 93°C, but still a little too hot. I have two fixtures like this so I will take a saw to the other fixture and open some huge holes in the side and see how that works out. One benefit of cutting the big holes in the frosted plastic cover right below the ballast is that it lets me shoot the temperature with the Fluke 80T-IR any time I feel like it. I knew these ballasts were failing since in the summer they would stop working if I had the lamp on for a few hours.

Lithonia_Lighitng_hacked

That is just about the time constant for the ballast temperature. Then the ballast would cool off and the two circular lamps would come on again. Then off… then on….until one of the fixtures stopped working altogether. Popping out the cover showed the melting potting compound and it was a safe bet that I needed new ballasts.

This is the sad fact of fluorescent lamp costs. I don’t care if they use no electricity, if I have to order new ballasts and replace them every five years it would be cheaper to use incandescent bulbs. Now I finally get the promise of LED lighting, yes even general lighting for the home. If they are replacing incandescent lights, the LEDs are way more expensive. But if they replace the fluorescent, they use as little or less electricity and since the ballast is not a big air-gap transformer but a switching power supply, let us hope the LED lamp ballast will not fail every five years. I see why Cree took me to task for the negative blog I did about LED lighting a year ago. At the time LED fixtures were still less efficient and very costly, but costs have plunged and efficiency is even better. Right now Cree has LEDs that beat the efficiency of compact fluorescents (Yes, wall outlet to lumens) and soon I expect they will get to the efficiency of the T-8 4-foot bulbs with electronic ballasts. Sure the LED fixture still costs a ton more, but if you don’t have to climb up a 30-foot ladder to replace the ballast (or the bulb for that matter) there is almost no cost too high to not make the LED lamp look good.

Oh, and I did not mention that, yes, there is still another fluorescent light problem I have, in the recessed-can fixtures over my porch. I can’t find the right bulbs. Furthermore these cans are on an IR motion sensor and that is always bad for fluorescent bulbs. It was over a year ago I had an exchange with Geoff Ling at Gallium Lighting.

 Gallium_LED_Fixture

The Gallium Lighting LED fixture, I want them.

He and president Keith P. Bahde explained that my old blog was right— for a year before that. They said that since then, there had been huge improvements in LED efficiency and that is how I learned that Cree and Osram had LEDs that beat compact fluorescent (CFL) efficiency and those T-8 and T-12 lamps may be next to fall. They also provided independent testing to show that they could beat CFL efficiency and it was a fair test, wall-socket to lumens. I was surprised to learn that a CFL fixture loses a lot just because they have to bounce the backside light forward, even a chrome reflector causes losses, if only because some of that light gets blocked by the bulb itself. Geoff explained to me that the starting mechanism in a CFL is what limits the number of cycles that you can turn it on. This means that you should not put them on a motion sensor like mine are. I am going to order a set of recessed-can fixtures from Gallium’s distributor (no, I will pay for them, EDN has a strict ethics policy about getting valuable gifts from anybody). The older objection to CFLs, that you can’t put them on a dimmer, has already been addressed by Infineon, International Rectifier and others. They have ballast chips that take an SCR dimmed ac power and translate it to a PWM dimmed power source for the CFL. Pretty neat stuff, so from now on it is only electronic ballasts for me, whether fluorescent or LED, I am tired of melted plastic dripping from my fixtures.

All I will say is that the florescent light manufactures have better get their act together if they want to stay competitive. They have a price advantage right now but they have to take the stupid old iron transformers out of the ballasts and use semiconductors to make long-life electronic ballasts like my beautiful GE UltraMax that I mentioned in my previous blog. As long as those old iron ballasts are failing in 5 years, there is absolutely no cost benefit to fluorescent.

I know Jim Williams over at Linear Technology has designed many great cold-cathode florescent lamp drivers for laptops, but LT does not make chips for off-line ballasts. I know Fairchild and International Rectifier do, so maybe Jim and I will whip up an electronic ballast for the dual circular fluorescent lights in my kitchen. I am sure we can get the ballasts to run cooler than 107 degrees centigrade.


Reader Comments



at 3/19/2009 9:56:45 PM, Andy T said:
The duct tape and the holes complement each other quite nicely, Paul. A real redneck would have used a Glock to make the vent holes, though, LOL. Seriously, that ballast takes 56W in, so unless you have it firmly bolted (vs ductaped) to the baseplate (and Arctic Silvered?), it''ll get pretty toasty since I believe the primary heat dissipation mechanism in these is conductive, then convective - don''t forget the fiberglass insulation backing for the fixture''s baseplate or you''ll burn the house down....



at 3/20/2009 2:43:10 AM, Paul Rako said:
Are you saying I am not a real redneck! Them's fighting words pardner. I should have mentioned the duct tape was holding the thermocouple to the side of the ballast. It is a fascinating problem. The thermocouple wire will take off heat from the junction, so that it reads low. That is why I taped a long section of the wire to the side of the ballast, so the wire would get isothermal at the end. But there is a thermal gradient going across the duct tape, which also makes the thermocouple read low. But the big wad of tape on the side of the ballast will insulate the ballast to the ambient air and make it read high. So the trick to put just enough redneck duct tape on the side to make up for the temperature gradient across the thickness. I failed, since the IR meter read a good 10 degrees hotter. I think the proper thing would be to also tape a piece of foam to the area over the thermocouple junction so that the whole area will get isothermal to the surface of the ballast. Live and learn. And yeah, I have used a pistol to put holes in the bottom of a wine barrel planter, but I used a revolver, none of that new-fangled plastic-gun automatic stuff for me, I am an analog guy after all. I did think about thermal grease on the backside to help the heat conduct to the baseplate. If you think the holes are redneck, wait till you see me take a sawzall to the other fixture. And yeah, I do have sheets up over the front windows, but the blinds just came today. A true redneck has curtains in his pickup truck but not his house.



at 3/20/2009 12:33:23 PM, Meredith Poor said:
If you put an appropriate sized aluminum heat sink between the ceiling and the fixture it wouldn't look so much like a UFO.



at 3/20/2009 12:36:58 PM, Meredith Poor said:
More seriously, I've always tried to buy the 'warm white' LEDS and I've found that these are hard to buy in the first place and less efficient than the so called 'cool white', which I find about as cool as watching an arc welder. I wouldn't be replacing one ceiling fixture with another, however: it's better to rethink the entire lighting situation in the room or house.



at 3/31/2009 8:50:30 AM, Meredith Poor said:
Off topic, but should be interesting to a car guy: discovery related to production of methane directly from electricity. ~~~
www.eurekalert.org/pub_releases/2009-03/ps-mte033009.php



at 3/31/2009 1:50:01 PM, W17053 said:
Complain, complain, complain . . First they outlaw incandescent and force us to go to CFL, which is not yet proven, and now you want us to go to LED (is it proven?). I still wonder what I am to use in my Stove and Refrigerator when the bulb burns-out. Neither is a good place for a ''twisty'' light.



at 3/31/2009 1:56:26 PM, William Ketel said:
I thinkthat the idea of getting Jim Williams of Linear Technology to work on designing an electronic ballast for CFLs and for non-compact flourescent lights is A WINNER IDEA! I have had quite a few of the CFL packages fail and it is always the cheap junk electronics. Doesn''t anybody understand that a lamp that would work could actually be sold for perhaps even a dollar more than one that will fail in a few weeks? And I know that some of them do still include a thermal starter, (1950s technology), and so of course they will fail. So the very first step is to pas a law that ALL cfls must be marked with a manufacturers name and model number. And we do not care how much of a hardship that requirement is. We absolutely don''t care. That requirement will make it simple to avoid purchasing the bad products a second time, and let the market decide who survives.



at 3/31/2009 2:06:55 PM, Chris P said:
Oh noze another whiner about CFL''s. Yes if you buy the cheap and nasty ones - they are cheap and nasty.

My whole house has CFL''s and they work fine inside and out even in a Colorado winter.

Perhaps I''d suggest not buying anything with glass in it. A friend yesterday removed a soda bottle from the freezer that a daft visitor had left there. When she put it carefully in her sink it exploded - glass and soda everywhere.





at 3/31/2009 2:41:50 PM, John P said:
I know that you can still buy the old iron ballasts, but try to make a fair comparison with current technology. Ordinary fluorescent lamps are not the same as CFL's at all. The ON/OFF cycling issue is also a moot point if you can have a short delay to get the lamp filaments hot before igniting the lamp. I worked on a tabletop UV sterilizer, using this approach, that showed no sign of shortened lamp life at 10,000 cycles.
Don't declare FL's dead quite yet.



at 3/31/2009 3:22:04 PM, Meredith Poor said:
Blue LEDS are silicon carbide (SiC) and can handle temperatures well over 1000 degrees (hopefully your stove doesn't exceed 550). Problem is some of the other elements of the LED base (like the plastic cover) can't take it. A special casing with a quartz cover would work, though.



at 3/31/2009 7:02:56 PM, Scratchy said:
I was employed by ATC more than 30 years ago. The test samples they sent out to UL and ETL were the same old good internals recycled with new packaging. Often received magnet wire from CMW with insulation holes. Sometimes the potting was misformulated. Production rates so fast few ever completely tested. No real EE ever wanted to work there,
so they were the last make
HF ballasts.



at 4/2/2009 3:47:34 AM, grumpy said:
CFL''s are getting better and outlets like IKEA in Europe are driving the mkt to higher quality products. Tis only a matter of time.

When we worked as a suppplier to AT about 15yrs ago we called them "metal bashers" as they had so little clue of the world of electronics. I think in the world of bizspeak that is what they call today a ''lead indicator''.



at 4/6/2009 3:33:12 PM, Charles T said:
The cost "non-benefit" you describe has been my experience with CFLs. About 1/3 of the ones purchased failed within a year or two. And they were not installed in closed fixtures. The problem is that a good electronic ballast design often gets "cheapened" with low quality parts particulary capacitors.



at 4/13/2009 6:47:43 PM, Steve Nordquist said:
There were a lot of things wrong with that fixture, but I have to disagree with methods so far and advise a Mossberg be used on it. Home stores are catching on super-slow to what are sensible, efficient fixtures are, never picking the good beige-o-trons licensed from Hyatt or whatever hotelier.

Good sound absorption and diffusion, air handling, various aethetics, etc. all need to be in there. Designs need to have decent passivated diffuse reflectors in there! Get your A/R and gratings on when speccing things out.



at 6/25/2009 6:27:29 PM, JRT said:
Note that this is not a CFL issue as those are T9 lamps rather than T5.

Might I suggest that you junk the obsolete fixture and get a new one that has a 40W T5 lamp with an electronic ballast.

Slightly (<9%) less light but a large reduction in heat.



at 9/3/2009 6:19:03 PM, jitters said:
The guy who wrote this is the biggest moron ever!!! heat has nothing to do with a ballast malfunctioning you friggin idiot. Who gets you dressed in the morning?? How do you get through life. All kidding aside-- stay away from electricity before you kill yourself, seriously. WOW SCARY1

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