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California's Title 24: A Confusing And Otherwise Frustrating Lighting Acquisition Chore

April 7, 2010

My contractor/builder and I are nearing completion on a detached garage with residence space above it, for my Truckee, CA home:

Those of you who’ve followed my past snow stories can probably already imagine how beneficial it’ll be to be able to park my car inside. And given the living space limitations of my diminutive mountain residence, the ability to move the office out of the house and to the garage will be welcomed, as well.

As you might be able to see from the above photo, there are wiring placeholders to either side of the garage door, as well as above it. Above the door, we’ve already mounted a motion sensor-augmented two-bulb motion lighting cluster. On either side, we plan to install traditional switch-controlled lighting…therein the motivation for this particular narration.

As the Wikipedia entry for this writeup’s subject states:

The California Energy Code, or Title 24, Part 6 of the California Code of Regulations, also titled The Energy Efficiency Standards for Residential and Nonresidential Buildings, were established in 1978 in response to a legislative mandate to reduce California’s energy consumption. The standards are updated periodically to allow consideration and possible incorporation of new energy efficiency technologies and methods.

The latest iteration of Title 24, Part 6 is dated 2008. The California Energy Commission’s website notes that it:

Went into effect January 1, 2010, and supersede the 2005 Standards. Projects that apply for a building permit on or after this date must comply with the 2008 Standards.

But, although I obtained permits for my project last year, the particular issue I’m dealing with unfortunately dates to the 2005 standards iteration. Here’s a decent summary of the situation:

How Does It Affect Outdoor Lighting?

All exterior lighting mounted to the building or other buildings on the same lot are to be high-efficiency lighting or attached to a photocontrol or motion-sensor combination. For those unfamiliar with what exactly "high efficiency" is, primarily it excludes conventional, screw-based sockets. Your high-efficiency luminaires (read "fixtures") include pin-based sockets and some screw sockets (like metal halide lamps). If you are trying to be clever by converting a screw-based to a pin-based socket without changing the actual wiring or luminaire, you are in violation.

Parameters for "High Efficiency"

What passes for high efficiency under Title 24 is a simple baseline of lumens (unit of visible light) per watt. As wattage increases, the required amount of lumens per watt does also. So lamps (this means bulb) under 15 watts should be designed to radiate 40 lumens per watt, or 600 total lumens for a 15-watt lamp. Between 15 and 40 watts, the ratio should be 50 lumens per watt. And finally, those lamps exceeding 40 watts are to produce 60 lumens per watt. If this is all too confusing, remember that metal halide and compact fluorescent lamps usually make the mark. Mercury vapor lamps tend to fall short. If you are in doubt, you’ll have to check with the manufacturer.

The lights I have above the garage door, although employing traditional (and inefficient) incandescent bulbs, are in compliance because they also employ a motion sensor. The lights on either side of the garage door, on the other hand, are the problem. Note the above qualifier, ‘excludes conventional, screw-based sockets.’ This stipulation is in place, I believe, to keep someone from installing screw-socket CFL bulbs for inspection purposes, then afterward swapping them out for less-expensive and brighter incandescent alternatives.

Title 24’s environmental aspirations are admirable, but from my observer’s standpoint, the execution is fundamentally flawed. For one thing, as my electrician tells me, inspector enforcement of the pin-socket-only provision is hit-and-miss (alas, my particular inspector is a no-screw-socket stickler). In no small part because of this inconsistent compulsion situation, along with the availability of the photocontrol- and motion sensor-augmented compliance alternatives, high-volume retailers such as Home Depot haven’t yet bothered stocking Title 24-compliant lighting fixtures and luminaries.

You can buy Title 24-compliant lights, of course, but only at hefty prices from specialty suppliers. Check out, for example, the price tags at OutdoorLightingPlus and Sea Gull Lighting Products. Now compare them to the prices at Home Depot. See what I mean? Prices of scarce replacement bulbs are similarly outrageous. And here’s the irony…I’m not saying that I’m going to personally do this, but there’s nothing keeping someone from installing the necessary wiring, putting it behind a face plate, and then installing whatever lights he or she wants (Title 24-compliant or not) post-inspection. With a loophole that big in place, compelled by temptation due to a combination of unclear documentation, inconsistent enforcement and expensive-and-scarce product options, it makes me wonder why California officials bothered with Title 24 at all.

Posted by Brian Dipert on April 7, 2010 | Comments (3)

April 8, 2010
In response to: California's Title 24: A Confusing And Otherwise Frustrating Lighting Acquisition Chore
arclight commented:

Brian: I just finished installing what I think would meet your requirements. 1. Change the motion-sensor lamp over the top of the garage to be a separate motion sensor and lamp (or just split the motion sensor output and lamp hot lead apart). Make sure the motion sensor can switch the total load of all 3 fixtures (no big deal here). I got a suitable motion sensor at Home Depot for a few dollars; other supply houses can do the same. 2. Bring the motion-sensor output back to a single-pole 3-position center-off switch (Leviton 1281-w is a standard toggle switch in white; they are about $40). 3. Feed all lamps from the switch common; put unswitched AC on one of the switch throws and put the motion sensor output on the other switch throw. With this arrangement, all of your lights can either be: On Off Controlled by the motion sensor


April 8, 2010
In response to: California's Title 24: A Confusing And Otherwise Frustrating Lighting Acquisition Chore
Dr Bob commented:

The solution is to use some UK lighting sockets. These are not screw based but bayonet fittings. Or use 'festoon' bulbs which again are not screw based but push in. Or use a motion sensor with a switched timer over-ride


April 8, 2010
In response to: California's Title 24: A Confusing And Otherwise Frustrating Lighting Acquisition Chore
JoeJoe commented:

Just wire a photocontrol sensor in series with your conventional, screw-based socket, exterior lights and be done with it. Unless you really need your exterior lights to operate during the daytime?

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