Capacitor selection helps achieve long lifetimes for LED lights
This presentation was originally given by Andrew Smith, product manager, LED Lighting at Power Integrations for EDN’s May 2011 live LED event in San Jose. The next free LED event will be part of DesignWest on March 27, 2012. Register now at this link.)
Consumers often see LED lamp failures. If you look at the growing number traffic lights using LEDs, for example, you might see that many individual LED segments are no longer working. Early deployments, such as LED street lights in Asia, have experienced many failures. An examination of these failures shows that the LEDs themselves have not failed; rather, the power supplies that provide the power to the LED circuit have failed. We need to understand why LED lamps are failing and what it is about the power supply that is limiting the lifetime of the deployed circuits so that we can develop a better solution to improve LED lamp lifetimes.
One major issue is that LED lighting environments are very stressful for the power supply. LED lamps will typically run at full load for their entire operating period and they operated in an extremely high ambient environment.
An LED lamp will generate a large amount of heat, like any other lighting circuit (about 80% of the output from the power supply is lost as heat). The problem is that the LED lamp is located very close to the power supply. Therefore, the power supply itself sees the equivalent of its full rated output power (its own dissipation plus 80% of the output power) being dissipated as heat in its proximity.
With that introduction, let’s begin by looking at what causes LED power supplies to fail. There are two basic causes: heat and time. As the temperature rises, the likelihood of LED lamp failure increases and, as we have noted, high temperatures (often in excess of 90°C) are the norm for LED lamps.
When we examine the effect of heat, we find that the optocouplers and aluminum electrolytic capacitors are the most vulnerable components in the power supply. We are not going to cover the optocouplers today since that subject would comprise an entire paper. We are going to concentrate on what happens to an electrolytic capacitor in the circuit, how heat affects it over time, and what happens when the electrolytic capacitor gets to the end of its life. We will then look at how to fix the problem by removing electrolytic capacitors from key circuit locations.
First, let’s talk about the lifetime of an LED lamp. ENERGY STAR is specifying a lifetime requirement of more than 25,000 hours for residential applications and more than 35,000 hours for commercial applications. They describe the L70* characteristic for the lamp. This means that the relative light output must not fall below 70% of its initial brightness value in less than the rated lifetime of the system. (Lumen depreciation is the decrease in lumen output that occurs. L70 means that lumen depreciation to 70% of initial lumen output; stated conversely, it indicates 70% lumen maintenance.)
Lifetime of the circuit is only as long as that of the element in the circuit with the shortest lifetime. As seen in Fig. 1, the typical high-brightness LED circuit could last perhaps 45,000 hours before it will get to the L70 point. However, lifetime for a typical power supply may be only 20,000 hours. So what effectively happens is that it doesn’t really matter how strong your LED is if the power supply behind it can only last 20,000 hours.

Wasting the lifetime of these LEDs is not a good thing. Fig. 2 shows lifetime in hours along the bottom and failure rate on the vertical axis. (We haven’t actually populated the vertical axis because the numbers don’t really matter for this discussion.)

The dark blue line is the lifetime expected for the power supply, and the brown line shows the lifetime expected for the LEDs. You can see that the LEDs last significantly beyond the blue line, which represents the point at which the power supply begins to fail. The red area beneath the blue curved area represents early failure of the power supply. That is the wasted life which the LEDs still possess at the end of the system’s operation.
Think of it this way: If you bought a car with drive chain that lasts one million miles, but the wheels fall off at 50,000 miles, you’ve paid for a drive train that you’re never going to get full use of. Similarly, the power supply is dying very early. While the LEDs are still good for a long time, the lamp life has reached an end and you throw it away because the power supply failed. Moreover, if we’re using an inadequate standard power system design, the rising temperature of the power supply will also dramatically reduce the power supply’s life, making it even worse than shown here.
So what’s the source of the power supply’s lifetime problem? I already suggested that the main culprits are the aluminum electrolytic capacitors. But first, let’s take a look the rated lifetimes of the other components.
If we look at an LED string, based on L70, you can get to 45,000 hours quite easily. Fig. 3.

· The controllers last longer much longer than 100,000 hours, so they don’t wear out very quickly.
· The other semiconductors have lifetimes that exceed 100,000 hours.
· Diodes and transistors really last a long time. These components don’t have a lifetime problem.
· Ceramic capacitors last a very long time and are not a concern.
· Aluminum electrolytic capacitors, however, have a short life expectancy of perhaps 20,000 hours, which largely determines the LED system lifetime since this translates into only about one year of operation.
The structure of the aluminum electrolytic capacitors, subjected to a high ambient temperature, shortens the life of the power supply.

Fig. 4 shows a typical two-stage LED driver, commonly seen in applications today. This is a standard power supply that has to face the harsh temperatures that exist in an LED environment. How will it hold up? You can see positions on the circuit where you have high-voltage electrolytics. On the primary side, there is a big, bulk storage, 10 microfarad, 400 volt electrolytic capacitor. We also have an electrolytic 22 microfarad, 50 volt output capacitor for ripple reduction. And we have an electrolytic 4.7 microfarad, 25 volt capacitor biasing the controller.
As each of these electrolytic capacitors fail, they will have a different affect on the circuit. We’ll talk more about that later. At the moment, let’s make sure we understand that these components are a standard part of most two-stage LEDs drivers in use today. Let’s look at what happens to these electrolytic capacitors in their high ambient temperature environments and we’ll see why they fail.
The capacitors always operate at full load and at maximum temperature, as mentioned previously. Fig. 5 shows the lifetime expressed in thousands of hours for aluminum electrolytic capacitors based against the capacitor temperature in degrees C across the bottom. Then we have different kinds of capacitors: red is a low-cost, 2,000-hour capacitor; blue is a 5,000-hour capacitor; and green is a long lifetime, 10,000-hour capacitor.

If you want your capacitor reach 45,000 hours of life, first you need a very good capacitor because the ambient temperature, shown in the brown area, is what you’d see inside a lamp. Actually you can’t get to 45,000 hours with an electrolytic capacitor because it will fail at 85°C at 40,000 hours. What’s happening inside the capacitor is that the dielectric material — a combination of a liquid and a filler — evaporates over time and the capacitor starts to lose capacitances. After a certain period of time and much faster in an increased temperature environment, the capacitor fails.
What this shows is that in a high-temperature LED environment, even capacitors rated for 105°C can’t reach the lifetimes that designers need to make an effective LED power supply. This is a clear indication of why we have seen early failure in many power supplies. These LED power supplies are inflicting a very high ambient temperature on the power supply which means the standard the power supply solutions that many people are using simply cannot do the job.

Fig. 6 tells us that capacitors have a problem with this ambient. You could partially alleviate the problem by spending more money for longer lifetime capacitors and oversizing them (hard to do in the confined space of an LED lamp), but even if you buy the best capacitor you will struggle to meet the target lifetime in a raised ambient.
Let’s talk about ambient temperatures in capacitors for a moment. The capacitor temperature is determined by the internal ambient — it’s not really determined by the capacitor itself. There is minimal self heating even though the capacitors have a series resistance associated with them. In a typical application, that self-heating is swamped by the heating effect going on around the capacitors. The amount of heating created by the capacitor itself is very small. The internal ambient is determined by the power density, the power supply efficiency, and the LED temperature, which is controlled by the LED. System efficiency is determined by the power supply, LED temperature by the conversion efficiency of the LEDs and the amount of heatsinking being used. Higher power supply efficiency will enable the system to run cooler.
Bear in mind, of course, that you’re dissipating 100% of the rated power in heat. If you have a very efficient power supply, it’s not going to make much difference. It will reduce heat a little bit because it’s a two-part equation, and you’ll still have a lot more of the power returning to heat than will be saved in a more efficient power supply. The power density of LED lamps reinforces the problem with high temperatures as the heatsinking around the LEDs really ensures that the power supply sees most of the heat from the LEDs.
The ambient temperature outside the lamp might be 25°C. If you look at the ambient inside the 6-inch down light that is inside the can, it might be 45°C. If we look inside the power supply on the solder side of the PCB, it might be as high as 100°C, matched by the output capacitor which also shows a case temperature (Tcase) of 100°C. So you can see that you’re matching the ambient temperature very closely — the capacitor self-heating effect is swamped by external heating from the LEDs. It is worth noting that this power supply has a relatively high efficiency of 80.6%. But the capacitor still gets to 100°C.
Even the best capacitor on the previous chart would last only 15,000 hours at 100°C. So this is not close to the amount of time you need from the circuit. We can see the capacitors are under real pressure inside an LED lamp.
Let’s look at what happens at the end of life for electrolytic capacitors. What happens to your LED lamp when the capacitor fails? There might be a strategy for using electrolytics in such a way that if they do reach the end of their life and begin to lose their capacitance, it won’t affect your lamp too much. We can expect and accept some degradation in performance (remember the LED lamps are allowed to fall to 70% of their output before the end of life). So, some reduction in performance might be acceptable, as the long as the lamp still works and emits light.
Let’s look at what happens to electrolytic capacitors in different circuit locations as they approach end of life. First, what do we mean by “end of life” for an electrolytic capacitor? We see that it fails after a certain period of time, but then what do we mean by a capacitor failing?
There are standard definitions of capacitor end-of life failure: if capacitance falls to less than 25% of its initial value; the amount of power dissipating is greater than 200% of its initial value; its leakage has exceeded the value on the data sheet; when there’s external abnormality and the capacitor starts to swell. If we assume those are the possible failure modes, we can determine if those failures can cause a catastrophic circuit event. To do this, we need to examine the role of the capacitor in each circuit location.

If we look at the high-voltage input bulk capacitor, we see that the end of life gets dramatic. Fig. 7. As the electrolyte evaporates, input current increases, and capacitance begins to fall, resulting in higher and higher peak currents flowing through the primary switching circuit. As the primary current increases, efficiency will fall because the power lost in the MOSFET switches will increase in proportion to the square of the input power. Power losses increase as efficiency falls, adding to the heating effect, and the temperature around the capacitor rises. This accelerates the end of life, causing dramatic reductions in capacitance. As the capacitor starts to die, it changes the operation of the primary power circuitry, increasing the rate at which it degrades.
Eventually, either the circuit won’t start up or the power supply is pushing too much current through the switching MOSFETs which in turn will overheat and fail. In any case, it’s a catastrophic circuit event because the power supply will stop working. You’ll also see EMI on other components with possible unpleasant consequences.
If you look at the comparative EMI plot of the power supply with an input capacitor at the beginning of its life and the plot for the same power supply at end of the capacitor life, you’ll see that the EMI significantly increases as part of the wearout mechanism.

Let’s look at an electrolytic capacitor used in the output stage. Fig. 8. When the output capacitor begins to fail at the end of its life, the failure mechanism is more gentle. As the capacitance starts to reduce, the output ripple current increases. Comparing the plots for the output current ripple at the beginning of the power supply’s life and at the end (when output capacitance has reduced by 50%) we see that output ripple has doubled.
What does an output ripple current do to an output to an LED lamp? Surprisingly little, actually. It doesn’t show up as flicker; it doesn’t stop the lamp from working. All it means is that there is higher ripple on the line. Certain lamp applications already exhibit 100% ripple; low pressure sodium street lights, for example, can accept 100% ripple.
Yes, the output capacitor reaches the end of its life, but so what? The ripple increases, but that does not have a huge impact on the lamp’s operation. In that case, the light will still operate and provide light. It may not provide the light in quite the form that was specified for the lamp when it was new, but it’s still functional, it is still fit for purpose, so it can be considered a relatively a benign failure.
You can see now that the nice thing is that an electrolytic as the output capacitor will continue to operate for a long time. You can actually allow the capacitor to go beyond end-of-life and it will still continue to operate.
A similar effect occurs in the bias circuit. The bias capacitor energy storage will start to fall, but it has to fail quite significantly before it affects the operation of the power supply. You can even oversize the bias capacitor cheaply and take up little additional space because it is usually small to begin with. So, it is not a big deal to use an electrolytic capacitor as a bias capacitor.
Ideally, we want to develop a circuit that eliminates electrolytics completely, or at least eliminates them from the bad places – now we can look for a circuit that is able to do that.

Fig. 9 shows a single-stage combined PFC and CC LED power supply. It doesn’t need a bulk capacitor because it doesn’t attempt to hold the input voltage rail. It doesn’t need an electrolytic primary bulk capacitor on the primary side, so we can eliminate that cause of the lifetime problem. By the way, a quick note on capacitors symbols – notice that these are all straight lines. This mean they’re not electrolytic capacitors. Electrolytic capacitors have a curve at the bottom of the symbol. The small capacitors shown here are all ceramics (we will see this in the power supply photograph on the next slide).
So, it’s possible to design a power supply without any electrolytic capacitors at all. This is really good because ceramic capacitors are not going to be affected by temperature like electrolytics are; therefore, this circuit will have a very long lifetime.

Fig. 10 shows a 14 W power supply that has no electrolytic capacitors, delivers over 90% efficiency, and meets PF and THD requirements – all in a PAR38 enclosure – not bad.
If you remember, ceramics have a very, very long lifetime.
This is excellent; we just get away from electrolytics altogether.
But we also saw that using electrolytics on the output side or in the biased capacitor position isn’t a big problem. Maybe a compromise will also work…

Fig. 11 shows a 12 W power supply that uses no electrolytic capacitors in the input stage, but does employ them in a reduced stress location. The output capacitor is an electrolytic type because electrolytic capacitors have very high capacitance per unit volume. We have a very compact design with no electrolytic capacitors in a position where end-of-life causes a catastrophic lamp failure.
You still attain a long lifetime because you are putting electrolytics into a part of the circuit where they’ll fail very gradually and gracefully.
Lifetime is a key parameter for lighting. You can’t use standard power supplies because the environment is not conducive to normal power supply operation. You can, however, use a different topology to eliminate aluminum electrolytic capacitors from bad circuit locations. But, if you appropriately task the aluminum electrolytic capacitor, you can still make it work in an extended lifetime application. And we have shown that matching the circuit location with the appropriate capacitor technology is a critical step in extending LED driver lifetime.
You can also use ceramic capacitors, but you really can’t use them to provide bulk capacitance because they’re not volume efficient. To use a ceramic capacitor as a bulk cap for a street light a board area about the size of a suitcase would be required. You can, however, use very small ceramic capacitors that are suitable for the output stage and biasing applications.
The bottom line: The best approach for an LED driver is a circuit topology that does not use a large, electrolytic bulk capacitor.
Simple again commented:
A transformer from China and a diode rectifier should work pretty well. This is a $0.20 solution. Transformers can operate for many years at elevated temperatures. Maybe a series R for protection at elevated input voltage.
Simple commented:
Build a better Electrolytic capacitor that can take the heat and ripple current. Electorlytics designed for switching power supplies have improved significantally over the years. Then, don't let cheaply designed units into the marketplace by setting some standards.
Gabriel commented:
You're gonna have to buy a desleroding iron along with a sleroding iron. Every capacitor has two leads, one is positive and one is negative. You put them in the same way they come out, if you mess up then you'll have even more problems on your hands. But you use your desleroding iron to remove the solder from the back of the board (the solder trace side) Soldering is easy, but I would recommend practicing on some old junk circuit boards first. (an old clock, radio or something)
man commented:
Note: The capacitors on the circuit boards in Figs. 10 and 11 are most likely not all ceramic or electrolytic. It seems that there might be some polypropylene film capacitors mixed in (e.g. brownish part to the right of yellow transformer in Fig.11.).
Any concerns on lifetime with PP caps in the context of LED ighting?
LostInSpace commented:
This is based on the assumption a lot of "Artists Conception" capacitor life drawings that are not based on actual measurements. The interested reader should verify the assumptions for themselves before agreeing or disagreeing the the conclusions drawn, because if the assumptions are wrong the conclusion will be wrong. Likewise Ceramic capacitors do not have infinite life, they tend to have a different failure problem, one that is mechanical. With repeated thermal cycling the large ceramic capacitors can and do expand at a different rate of the PCB and tend to have mechanical crack failures possibly much sooner than expected. Much testing must be done with the old 1980's HALT methods to be sure that any design will last the way that the designer hoped for.
Ive designed LED bulbs commented:
If we could start with new infrastructure I would distribute 48V DC for lighting. Then each LED luminaire (light bulb or other form factor) would only have to regulate Dc current from a DC voltage - easy. FYI, big LEDs are not comprised of a single element. A typical LED element will handle about 150- 300mW so even a 1W LED is really made up of 3 to 6 LED elements. If it has a single diode drop (2.8 to 4.0V for a white LED) then all the elements are connected in parallel. They match really well because the are all on the same die and close to each other. It is no more expensive to connect them in parallel or in series or series/parallel combinations for higher voltages and greater efficiency in the conversion.
However, people want to replace light in their buildings for now without needing new infrastructure. Now one has to deal with AC input and, more of a pain in the ass, with Triac-based phase-cut dimmers.
AC to DC current regulation is nothing new but handling phase-cut dimming while keeping the triac from prematurely shutting off at low light is a trick. Poorly designed circuits will result in blinking LEDs with dimmers as a result.
You can do without electrolyitics if you just do not bother to filter the rectified 120Hz. This has a nice benefit of resulting in pretty good PFC with many designs. You do get the 120Hz ripple with 100% modulation (full off to full on). Note that CFLs light ripple at 120Hz is only 30-50% typically.
A solution is to use an electrolytic at the output. As the article correctly states you can get much more usable life of the 'lytic here, especially in a buck configuration as output cap does not have to handle much ripple. with moderate cap values you can get to 30% ripple like the CFLs
In some bulbs I have designed the cap temps were about 90C. If you use a cap rated at 10,000 hours at 105C, using the fairly acurate 2x per 10C rule of thumb, you get 20,000 hours at 95C and about 28,000 at 90C. But this "lifetime" is not a to-failure time but rather a time to reduced specs which typically are that the ripple current rating will drop by a factor of 2 and reduction in capacitance of maybe 10% and other similar reductions in spec. The end result is that his cap will leave the bulb quite functional to 50,000 hours.
mr coffee commented:
I decided to use LED recessed spots in an addition to the house for my wife's pottery studio. I used MR16 (12 volt AC - they have a bridge rectifier in the base) and wired up 20 bulbs in DIY fixtures (parallel fixtures at 12 volts), since all the 12 volt MR16 commercial fixtures are meant for high operating temp halogen reflector bulbs, and are constructed with a built in 60 hz transformer for each bulb\fixture, and are MAJOR overkill for 3-4 watt 12 volt LEDS that don't get over 35 degrees C or draw 50 watts. An old school "PFC" 12 volt power supply using a bog old 60 hz. transformer and choke input power supply with several paper and oil caps (from a cast-off AC unit) makes for a hell-of-a-long-life, AC-surge-tolerant power supply I expect will outlast me. I think getting away from 120 volts at the bulb socket is the only way to get long lived LED lighting. Replace the power supply when it reaches end-of-life, just keep it from taking the LEDs with it.
Earld commented:
I have a track light that uses 5 GU10 50 watt lamps. I replaced them with 5 GU10 bulbs only slightly larger than the GU10 Halogen bulbs, but containing 3 CREE leds and are almost as bright. I looked at the CREE website and there are bright leds that run at 45 volts. The GU10 led bulb spec is 85 to 265 volts. At 120 v. The power for each bulb is 9 watts. When I turn down the phase controlled dimmer, 3 of the bulbs start to flicker but 2 do not. At only 45 watts, there is little reason to dim them. I am amazed that they fit the GU10 socket and and are the same length. The leds seem to be CREE but the bulb is made in China.
BudM commented:
"However: that only tells to which lifetime the elcaps are tested; the real lifetime can be up to three times more". I wish it is true, but that is not what I see in real life fixing failed Products due to failed caps as you can see in my album at Photobucket.com under the name of budm.
Leonard Roque commented:
I have thought about this before:
For residential and even some commercial applications; the best system solution is to split the power supply into two sections.
A Front End part consisting of the PFC section (for all lighting in the residence), whose output will be a DC bus (lets say 24 VDC or even 48 VDC to reduce losses)) which will supply the power to the second section(s): High efficiency DC to DC converters (regular LED drivers) (one per luminaire).
The PFC section could easily be built using standard design (from 500 to > 2000 watts)depending on size of home.
The PF could now approach 1.0 and the harmonics be reduced to much less than the Snergy Star requirement of 20%. Overall efficiency will increase as the PFC section and the DC to DC cnverters will run cooler and have more real estate; also the imaginary component from the grid will be reduced and an increase in overall system efficiency will be realized.
Regards to all,
Leonard Roque
Pierre commented:
Separate LED bulb & power supply: paradigm shift
Looking at the current lifetime curves trend, one would need to design in lamps with replacable power supply and fixed bulb.
fp commented:
I do not agree that electrolytics are to be avoided at all.
Many lifetime calculations use the datasheet values of endurance. However: that only tells to which lifetime the elcaps are tested; the real lifetime can be up to three times more. Before denying the use of electrolytics the real lifetimes should be asked from the supplier. In that case the story might well be different.
DavidPL commented:
Build power supplies that don't convert the power to DC. There will be a 120 hz strobe effect, but we have lived with that with fluorescents for years.
Victor commented:
@Erik: good choice, I agree with that!
And as a general remark; I remember LEDS are current driven devices, and the topologies I see are voltage feedback, thus voltage supplies.
Let's consider using an current source for driving LEDS, or is this a bad idea?
WestfW commented:
I've been wondering if you could increase lifetime of LED and CFL "bulbs" (with internal supplies using HV electrolytics) by putting a rectifier and filter cap elsewhere in the fixture. This would supply DC to the "bulbs", which would then recitfy and filter again, but there would be less self-heating due to ripple current, and even if the bulb caps blew, you'd still be getting relatively clean DC in the circuitry thereafter, minimizinf cascading faiures (assuming the fixture cap lasts longer.)
But most of the heat is from the bulb/led itself, and it would depend on exactly how elecytrolytic caps fail when overheated...
Pierre commented:
I think that more higher voltage / lower current LEDs should be made, CREE's MX3S alike. They are well adapted to offline uninsulated lighting.
I agree with Mike, there is no need to mix driver & LED in same package.
Bill Whitlock commented:
Can you guys say "retrofit" and "phasing in". Good ideas, but nobody wants to scrap all the existing "infrastructure" ... 120 VAC utility power is likely to be with us for decades longer. I think a reasonable intermediate (between power supply in the lamp and DC distribution) step would be to make fixtures that contain the power supply (where there's generally more space and lower temperatures). In the even nearer term, reference circuits using no electrolytics are already available from several IC makers.
Erik commented:
Why not start building lighting fixtures with the power supply and just make an LED bulb with no electronics. Its a perspective shift that makes sense to me.
Brad Wood commented:
Mike, indeed. And, although a longer-run proposition, how about d.c. distribution for the lighting systems?
Mike commented:
Or, "if you can't take the heat, stay out of the kitchen!"
Perhaps we should quit making LED's fit into light bulb sockets, and come up with a form-factor that does not trap all that heat and restrict the light-emitting surface area.
Also, while bulbs and fluorescent bulbs work off of high voltages, LED's are low-voltage parts. So why build a power supply inside every bulb? Seems wasteful.















