LED bulbs reveal different design approaches
Margery Conner, Technical Editor - April 21, 2011
A recent article examined
light patterns from common
lighting bulbs and
took apart a Philips LED bulb
to understand how its use of a secondary
phosphor affects its light pattern
(Reference 1). This article continues
that discussion of the Philips 12.5W LED
bulb, which relies on a secondary phosphor
to spread its light in an almost-360°
pattern (Figure 1). Figure 2 shows the
top view of the bulb looking down into
the wiring and connectors that take the
power to the three LED boards.

This bulb uses connectors rather
than relying on low-cost labor for
hand-soldering, which manufacturers
of CFLs (compact fluorescent lamps)
use. For example, Figure 3 shows a view
of a PCB (printed-circuit board) from
a hand-soldered CFL. The big blobs of
solder inspire little confidence in manufacturing
quality and probably have
played a role in shorter-than-expected
lifetimes for some CFLs. Philips’ decision
to rely on connectors makes for a more repeatable, reliable assembly
process and should pay off in long-term
bulb reliability.

Figure 4 shows the LED PCB and connector, as well as the thermal-interface material that helps pull the heat away from the LEDs into the relatively massive heat sink. Popping off the bulb’s power socket exposes the power-management circuitry (Figure 5) encapsulated in a rubbery potting compound (Figure 6). I couldn’t get a good photo of the dimming LED-driver IC, but the lettering looked something like CY8OLED, which I believe is a 12W Cypress CY8CLED dimmable LED driver (Figure 7 and Reference 3). When I connected it to a TRIAC (triode-alternating-current) dimmer, the bulb dimmed beautifully from almost 0 to the full 100%.

My deconstruction of LED bulbs has in the past been utilitarian, relying heavily on hammers, wrenches, and safety glasses (Figure 8). Shortly after I performed the Philips bulb tear-down, Peter Di Maso, marketing manager for lighting-power products at Texas Instruments, told me that he’d had good luck with baking bulbs in the oven at 200°F for 30 minutes before pulling them apart. I tried this approach on my next tear-down. This time, the victim was a Lemnis Pharox 300, a 6W, dimmable LED bulb capable of 360 lumens at 2900K.


Before popping the snow-cone-type
bulb into the oven, I turned it on to
see its light pattern (Figure 9), which
turned out to be fuller than the usual
180° you see with a snow-cone-type
design. How does the manufacturer
achieve that trick? The bulb emitted a
noticeable hum, however; I could hear
it from 10 feet away.
I had to leave the bulb in the oven
for an hour. Wearing leather gloves, I
twisted the bulb quite a bit before pulling
the white top straight out to reveal
an array of six LEDs: Two red LEDs flank
four white LEDs, visible in their off-state
as yellow (Figure 10). This instance
marks the first time I’ve seen “color-tuning”
red LEDs in a relatively inexpensive
replacement-type LED bulb.
At this point in the tear-down, the
socket was still on the bulb, and I was
able to fire up the bulb to see how the
red LEDs behaved: They were on whenever
the white LEDs were on, dimming
and growing brighter in the same way
that the white devices were. This scenario
contrasts with what I observed
in the tear-down of the Cree TrueWhite LED module, which also uses red LEDs inside
the white-LED module (Reference 4). However, those red LEDs come on only
at full-on power to the module because
white LEDs generally shift away from
the warmer colors at higher drive currents. The Pharox uses always-on red
LEDs to achieve a warmer white but
without the added intelligence—and
circuitry—of the TrueWhite approach.

This bulb uses connectors rather
than relying on low-cost labor for
hand-soldering, which manufacturers
of CFLs (compact fluorescent lamps)
use. For example, Figure 3 shows a view
of a PCB (printed-circuit board) from
a hand-soldered CFL. The big blobs of
solder inspire little confidence in manufacturing
quality and probably have
played a role in shorter-than-expected
lifetimes for some CFLs. Philips’ decision
to rely on connectors makes for a more repeatable, reliable assembly
process and should pay off in long-term
bulb reliability.My praise for the use of high-quality
connectors resulted in some virtually
raised eyebrows in the online comments
when I posted these photos online.
For example, one reader asked how a
connector can be more reliable than
a solder joint (Reference 2). Because
these solder joints are on the top side
of the board, they are necessarily hand-soldered,
and it’s difficult, though not
impossible, to achieve a repeatable,
high-quality hand-soldered joint in a
cramped space in a high-volume manufacturing
line. Connectors, on the other
hand, are simple to use and consistent
in their performance.

Figure 4 shows the LED PCB and connector, as well as the thermal-interface material that helps pull the heat away from the LEDs into the relatively massive heat sink. Popping off the bulb’s power socket exposes the power-management circuitry (Figure 5) encapsulated in a rubbery potting compound (Figure 6). I couldn’t get a good photo of the dimming LED-driver IC, but the lettering looked something like CY8OLED, which I believe is a 12W Cypress CY8CLED dimmable LED driver (Figure 7 and Reference 3). When I connected it to a TRIAC (triode-alternating-current) dimmer, the bulb dimmed beautifully from almost 0 to the full 100%.

My deconstruction of LED bulbs has in the past been utilitarian, relying heavily on hammers, wrenches, and safety glasses (Figure 8). Shortly after I performed the Philips bulb tear-down, Peter Di Maso, marketing manager for lighting-power products at Texas Instruments, told me that he’d had good luck with baking bulbs in the oven at 200°F for 30 minutes before pulling them apart. I tried this approach on my next tear-down. This time, the victim was a Lemnis Pharox 300, a 6W, dimmable LED bulb capable of 360 lumens at 2900K.


I had to leave the bulb in the oven
for an hour. Wearing leather gloves, I
twisted the bulb quite a bit before pulling
the white top straight out to reveal
an array of six LEDs: Two red LEDs flank
four white LEDs, visible in their off-state
as yellow (Figure 10). This instance
marks the first time I’ve seen “color-tuning”
red LEDs in a relatively inexpensive
replacement-type LED bulb.Why would you want to add red to
a white light? In general, we associate
warmer-colored lights with incandescent
lights because most interior color
schemes target use with incandescents. However, LEDs are generally more
expensive and less efficacious at higher
color temperatures. Adding a couple of
red LEDs to warm up the white light can
make for a more attractive light. George
Kelly, an Avnet “illumineer”
who spoke at a panel on LED
lighting at last month’s APEC (Applied
Power Electronics Conference), believes that our preference
for warm colors dates back to
prehistoric times when firelight was the
only option for light at night. Blue light
is more prevalent during the day when
the sun is high, whereas redder, warmer
light is a signal that the day is winding
down and it’s time to relax.
At this point in the tear-down, the
socket was still on the bulb, and I was
able to fire up the bulb to see how the
red LEDs behaved: They were on whenever
the white LEDs were on, dimming
and growing brighter in the same way
that the white devices were. This scenario
contrasts with what I observed
in the tear-down of the Cree TrueWhite LED module, which also uses red LEDs inside
the white-LED module (Reference 4). However, those red LEDs come on only
at full-on power to the module because
white LEDs generally shift away from
the warmer colors at higher drive currents. The Pharox uses always-on red
LEDs to achieve a warmer white but
without the added intelligence—and
circuitry—of the TrueWhite approach.
Once I got the bulb cover off, I could
easily see how the Pharox achieves a
larger light pattern than most snow-cone
designs (Figure 11). The LED’s array is
slightly elevated. As a result, it projects
down more than it would if aligned with
the edge of the LED’s heat-sink base.
The elevation is slight, but the bulb
cover, acting as a diffuser, adds a slight
reflection, so the light pattern is deeper
than that of other snow-cone designs.
Continuing to dismantle the bulb, I
removed the base, exposing the power-control
electronics (Figure 12). This
experience marks the first time that I’ve
seen an LED bulb that did not encase
its electronic components in a rubbery
potting compound, and this lack of compound
may be the reason for the audible
hum: The potting compound would have
either prevented the vibration or muffled
the noise from a discrete component.
This problem may well have been an
isolated one, however.
| References |
|
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Today’s LEDs—What’s responsible for the improvements?
Efficient method for interfacing TRIAC dimmers and LEDs
GaN LED on silicon plus light extraction yields cost-effective lighting
Get more operating life from LED-based bulbs
Power an LED driver using off-the-shelf components
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